More images in the photo album of Wells. 
I just found this map on the web, explaining our dilemma. Click to enlarge and pay close attention to the one-way direction arrows around the center, and you will understand why we kept circling, unable to find our way. |
Friday, Jan. 3, 2003 The day’s program started with checking out of the hotel in Bristol. Despite spending two nights there, we left Bristol without exploring any of it, beyond getting lost in the dark trying to find an open restaurant on New Year's Day. Compared to the other items on our lists of must-sees, it became purely a convenient place to overnight; sad really, because I believe parts of it are lovely. After loading our bags in the car, we set off for Wells first, to be followed by Bath before driving through to Cardiff for the night. In England, the traditional definition of a city is a settlement with a diocesan Cathedral, which in turn is roughly defined as the seat of a bishop of a diocese. Contrary to popular belief the presence of a Cathedral alone is not enough; a royal charter designating a conurbation as a city is required (more detail). Wells therefore is one of England’s smallest cities – but for the Cathedral it would have been a smallish market town. For such a small place it certainly gave us an inordinate amount of trouble to get where we wanted. The one way streets seemed to sweep us spiraling inward until, within reach of the Cathedral, we ran into a T-junction with a one way going in the (for us) wrong direction. At first unfazed we tried again, but no matter which route we followed, how different we tried to make our approach, at some stage we always ran into that same infuriating T-junction. We eventually gave up, pulled into a Park and Ride on the outskirts of town; and discovered a big map on a board which showed us how to get to a parking lot much closer to the Cathedral. Shifting to that lot turned out to be relatively painless after the preceding hour of frustration, and it allowed us to walk through the winding little streets and gaze at the beautiful old buildings on our way to the Cathedral. (Yes, I know I am breaking my own rule here, but only because Wells is such a tiny town – oops, city. Also, had we gone to Park and Ride first thing, we would have seen that route map right away and could have moved directly, instead of spending a useless hour spiraling and doubling back.) The sight of the Cathedral washed away all the irritations of getting there. It was simply magnificent. The West Front (main entrance) originally had more than 500 statues – many larger than life – in niches; today almost 300 of the originals remain. Started in 1180, it is the first completely English gothic cathedral. I am fascinated by cathedrals, with a particular fondness for gothic architecture. Those massive medieval monuments to God were built with none of the machinery considered crucial today, at fabulous cost among people who were starving in unimaginable conditions, stretching the boundaries of what was considered possible, breaking brand new engineering ground with every new design, both fuelling and consuming new mathematics and physics with every stone. |
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Comments (6)
I've always wanted to see Wells cathedral! I understand that in the 13th Century (or thereabouts) the structure began to shift or otherrwise weaken. The engineers devised a solution that has lasted to this day: a double-arch "scissor" support in the interior.
Posted by Chrysalis | January 25, 2005 9:52 AM
Posted on January 25, 2005 09:52
I feel obliged to point out that not all cities in the UK have cathedrals (or, to be strictly accurate, became cities purely due their having cathedrals) but all settlements with cathedrals are cities (hence St David's [Tyddewi] is a city with a population of approximately 1,500).
There's some mildly interesting info on the subject here.
Posted by Em² | January 25, 2005 2:49 PM
Posted on January 25, 2005 14:49
(although the bit about St David's only having been a city since 1994 is tosh - it should say "TI")
Posted by Em² | January 25, 2005 2:51 PM
Posted on January 25, 2005 14:51
Em, thanks for the correction. I've corrected it here (I think) and will post more on it.
Chrys, between the two (the other being Salisbury) I think Wells is my favorite. More about the scissor arches to follow.
Posted by Sivani | January 25, 2005 8:10 PM
Posted on January 25, 2005 20:10
Interesting to read abt Bristol. Though its just abt 50 miles from my place.. I have never been there. :)
Posted by Chakra | January 26, 2005 2:03 AM
Posted on January 26, 2005 02:03
I've been to Bristol - but I've never been to Wells. The only cathederal's I have visited are St.Pauls in London - and the "Minster" in York.
Posted by Jag | January 30, 2005 3:24 AM
Posted on January 30, 2005 03:24